灯塔摆件制作说明

By 雷小宝 • 2025-05-19 13:45:50 • 237次点击

灯塔模型图纸 http://www.pixiaojiang.cn/pattern/2092
成品高60cm，制作过程参考以下图文教程

1、Printing and cutting-out the pattern
Print the pattern on A4 paper depending on the version you down- loaded.
Make sure that the pattern is not resized by checking your print settings. You can check if it was printed properly by measuring the reference found at the bottom of each page.

As for the windows template, print it on the transparency paper, making sure to use the recommended print settings.
Be mindful that only one side of those sheets is intended to be printed on.
A4 1:1 100%大小打印
彩色玻璃用“可打印透明胶片”打印直接使用，淘宝找这个材料

2、Securing the pieces of the pattern on the leather
Roughly cut around the different pieces of the template with an X-acto knife or a pair of scissors and secure all the pieces of the template to your leather using masking tape.

3、Punching the holes
Use your stitching prongs and hole punches to punch out all the holes of the project.
The openings of the railings can be punched with a 3x10mm oblong hole punch.

Punch the stitching holes on the transpar- ency film as well.

4、Punch the stitching holes on the transpar- ency film as well.
Cutting-out the pieces of the project
With an X-Acto knife and plenty of patience, carefully cut out each piece of the project.

Cut out all the windows from the transparen- cy film.

5、Carving the details
Carve the details of the door, columns and frontispiece using an awl, stylus or a carving spoon.

6、Painting the leather
Carve the details of the door, columns and frontispiece using an awl, stylus or a carving spoon.
This project has been painted using Angelus leather paints. You’ll need a fair amount. Using a roller helps with getting a smooth texture and homogeneous result on the large pieces.
My goal was to achieve a reasonably similar colouring scheme compared to the original lighthouse. Without such limitations you can let your creativity run wild and add a lot more contrast!

The corrosion on the tin roof of the lantern roof gives its original grey appearance corral undertones. I used white, pewter and turquoise to re-create this. The tower of the light- house is more recent than the lower levels. Thus the limestone gets progressively more weathered by the elements as we progress down the levels. I tried to recreate this by add- ing a bit more yellow and brown to the white as I painted down the different levels.
I used masking tape to mask the windows when I was painting the tower shaft and second level wall. Then I removed the tape and painted the windows muntins white.

7、Assembling the lighthouse
The lighthouse will be stitched from top to bottom, with each level assembled and then joined to the one above. The instructions will cover each level in sequence.
The pattern PDF contains assembly diagrams that can be used as reference to understand how the different elements connect to each other.

7.1、Lantern room
We will start by stitching the dome of the lantern room. Stitch together two opposite slice edges using a cross-stitch.
When you reach the top, stitch in the orna- ment washer.

The ornament that adorns the top of the lighthouse is optional. Should you decide not to add it, you wouldn’t need to add the washer either.

After reaching the top, stitch down to join the next two slices. Repeat the same operation to connect the next following 4 slices.

To complete the lantern room, stitch the two opposite edges together (holes denoted 1 on
the assembly diagrams up to holes 2) and join the last two slices of the dome.

The support wall of the lantern room is topped by a cornice. Join those two elements with a cross-stitch (holes 3 to holes 4).

Connect the two ends of the support wall (holes 5 to 6) to form a cylindrical shape.

Stitch the upper cornice to the lantern room using a saddle stitch (holes 7 to 8).
Close the cornice with a single cross-stitch between the two opposite edges (holes 9).

Stitch the support wall to the lantern room using a saddle stitch. You’ll be going through the holes that have already been used to connect the support wall to its cornice (holes 10 to 11).

The transparency film used to create the windows of the lantern room is glued using contact cement. Indeed the printable side of the transparency film reacts and binds to contact ce- ment.
Apply contact cement on the windows muntins inside the lantern room and wait for it to be dry to the touch.
Roll the transparency film onto itself, printable side facing outward. Allow one of the two vertical edges of the film to touch the edge of the lantern room (where the vertical stitch- ing holes are located). It will stick instantly so you have to be very careful with your posi- tioning.
Then unfurl the film little by little until it has been glued all around the inside of the lantern room.

Finally screw on the spike at the top of the dome to complete the lantern room.

4 回复 | 直到2025-06-01 20:40添加回复

雷小宝 13 天前#1 -回复

7.2、Tower
Start by stitching the 9 central windows on the tower shaft. To do so, stitch the win- dows' frames to the shaft and to the trans- parency films underneath.
Then stitch the lintel on top of the frames themselves.

You may notice that the transparency film windows are slightly less wide than the frames so that the stitching holes are 1mm off. This is because when the tower shaft is curved, its inner surface shrinks. Thus the transparency film would wrinkle if it was the same size as the layers above it.

Connect the two ends of the tower shaft to form a cone by using a cross stitch above, below and between the locations of the last 3 windows (holes 12 to 13, 14 to 15, 16 to 17 and 18 to 19).
Then stitch on the windows to complete the shaft. The holes located at the center of each window do not match any holes on the shaft. Simply run your needles and thread through the gap between the two opposite edges of the shaft.

We can now add the the railing, cornice and lightbulb holder to the tower shaft. First connect the two ends of the railing using a cross-stitch (holes 20 to 21).

Connect the two ends of the cornice (holes 22 and 23) using a cross-stitch.
With the same thread, stitch together the cornice, the railing, the tower shaft and the terrace using a box-stitch (holes 24 to 25). Which means that you are going through the cornice, railing and tower shaft as you would with a regular saddle-stitch, but then the thread goes at a 90 degrees angle to go through the terrace.

To create the shaft of the lightbulb holder, connect the two opposite ends with a cross- stitch.

The bottom of the shaft is held in place using a stitch-less technique. The 5 little tabs are folded using a pair a pliers. This makes them small enough to be inserted into the holes of the shaft. Finally they are unfolded to secure the bottom piece in place.

Be mindful of the the orientation of the shaft when adding the bottom. The correct holes to use are the ones located the closest to their nearest edge.

Use the same assembly method to secure the lightbulb holder to the terrace. Fold the 5 little tabs of the terrace. Inert them in the 5 holes of the lightbulb holder and unfold them.

雷小宝 13 天前#2 -回复

7.3、Third level
Connect the two ends of the outer wall with a cross-stitch to form a cylinder (holes 26 to
27).

Then connect the two ends of the inner wall using a cross-stitch (holes 28 to 29).
With the same thread, stitch together the cornice, the crenellation, the outer wall and the
inner wall in that order using a saddle-stitch (holes 30 to 31). Finally connect the last two holes of the cornice (holes 32).

Up next is the terrace. Something to be mindful of and that will apply to both ter- races: to make sure that the levels line up, you need to start stitching at the location where both concentric rings of stitching holes align. I added a grey line to the pat- tern to make it easier to find that spot.

Stitch the bottom of the outer wall to the inner-most stitching holes of the terrace (holes 32 to 33). Use a combination of box-stitch and cross-stitch in order to connect the two pieces securely.

Finally stitch the second level to the base of the tower shaft using a saddle stitch (holes 34 to 35). The inner wall goes over the base of the tower shaft.

7.4、Second level
Stitch the 8 columns of the second level to the wall.
Then stitch the 3 central windows following the same process used to stitch the windows of the tower shaft.

Connect the two ends of the tower shaft to form a cylinder by using a cross stitch above
and below the location of the remaining window (holes 36 to 37 and 38 to 39). Then stitch on the window to finish shaping the cylinder.

Stitch the lower cornice around the wall using a saddle-stitch (holes 40 to 41).

Stitch the terrace to the bottom of the wall following the same process used for the third level (holes 42 to 43).

To connect the second level to the terrace of the third level, use a box stitch going through the railing, the crenellation, the wall and linking to third level’s terrace at a 90 de- grees angle (holes 44 to 45).
Finally stitch up the two ends of the railing using a cross-stitch to complete that level (up to hole 46).

雷小宝 13 天前#3 -回复

7.5、First level
Prepare the frontispiece by stitching the upper feature and the lower feature to the back-
ground using a saddle stitch.
For the upper feature, only stitch the chevrons. Keep the horizontal stitching lines un- stitched as we will use them to attach the frontispiece to the terrace wall.

Connect the two ends of the terrace wall with a cross-stitch to form a cylinder (holes 47 to 48).

Start stitching the upper cornice around the terrace wall using a saddle-stitch (holes 49 to 52). Exactly 44 holes after the first hole, add the frontispiece on top of the cornice (holes 50 to 51).

Repeat the same process for the lower cornice to complete the terrace wall (holes 53 to 56).

Stitch the 12 columns to the wall using a saddle-stitch. The small foot of the column goes at the bottom.

Stitch the casing and the jamb of the front door to the wall using a box-stitch. The side of the jamb connected to the wall is the one with the most holes.

Stitch the perimeter of the door to the jamb using a box-stitch.

Complete the door by stitching the decora- tive chevron to the top of the casing.

Connect the two ends of the wall with a cross-stitch to form a cylinder (holes 57 to 58).

To connect the first level to the second level, use a box-stitch going through the bottom of the terrace wall, the wall and terrace of the second level at a 90 degrees angle (holes 59 to 60).
Lift the bottom of the frontispiece to access the holes of the terrace wall located under the lower feature.

雷小宝 13 天前#4 -回复

7.6、Base, lightbulb holders and wiring
Stitch the 5 lightbulb holder tabs to the flesh side of the base using a saddle-stitch.

Assemble the lightbulb holder by first stitching the bottom edge of the wall to the bottom using a box-stitch.
Then form the cylinder by stitching up the two ends using a cross-stitch.
Finally insert the socket in the holder, with the two wires exiting through the holes.

The pattern comes with two holder options: one for GU-10 lightbulbs and one for E27 lightbulbs.

I am not electrician! Use your best jugement while proceeding with the following step.

Currently the power cord only connects to one of the two sockets. Thus we need to create
a derivation so that the lightbulb sitting at the bottom of the lighthouse is powered as well.
Cut the power cord 40cm away from the socket and strip both wires at each of the two ends of the cord.
Screw the E14 socket to the bottom of the lightbulb holder at the top of the tower.
Use the method of your choice to connect the exposed wires coming from the E14 sock- et and the wires coming out of the socket located at the bottom of the lamp to the cord coming from the plug so that both sockets are powred.

Make sure that everything works as intend- ed. If your electrical wiring doesn't bust into flames, proceed with the next steps.

Use 5 Chicago screws to secure the lightbulb holder to the base of the lamp.
Glue the barrels to the tabs using a dab of super glue so that they can’t rotate when screwing on the screws.

Next stitch the bottom of the door to the base using a box-stitch (holes 61 to 62).

Stitch the base to the bottom of the jamb (holes 63 and 64) using a box-stitch and contin- ue stitching the first half of the base to the bottom of the wall until you reach the power cord opening (holes 65 to 66).
You will notice that some stitching holes are located underneat the feet of the columns. Simply lift each foot carefully to use those stitching holes.
Repeat the same operation for the other half of the base (holes 67 to 70) to complete the lighthouse and congratulate yourself for all your hard work!

8、Fitting the lantern room to the tower
The lantern room is made to be easily removed so that the lightbulb at the top of the light- house can be replaced. To fit it, simply slide it on the edge of the ligthbulb holder protrud- ing from the terrace. It should fit snuggly.